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Yield: 1 cup

4 heaping tablespoons unsweetened cocoa *
2 cups granulated sugar *
1 cup boiling water *
dash of salt *
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Place small heavy-bottomed saucepan on unlit stove burner. Sift sugar and cocoa into pan and add boiling water, stirring to blend. Turn heat to medium high and heat to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. If you have a gas stove, immediately turn heat to low. If you have an electric stove, place pan on another burner turned to low. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn off heat and add vanilla and salt. Stir to blend. Allow to cool and pour into jar, syrup dispenser or squeeze bottle. Will keep, refrigerated, for at least a month.

Serves 6 to 8

Active time: 35 minutes Start to finish: 45 minutes

3 pounds cauliflower (1 large head), cut into smallish florets) *
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided *
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour *
1 1/2 cups milk *
6 ounces sharp cheddar, coarsely grated *
1/2 cup finely chopped scallion greens *
1/2 teaspoon salt *
1/2 teaspoon black pepper *
20 (2-inch square) saltine crackers or Ritz crackers *
2 tablespoons drained bottled horseradish

Preheat oven to 450 degrees Butter a 2-quart baking or gratin dish Cook cauliflower in a 5- to 6-quart pot of boiling salted water until just tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain cauliflower well in colander and transfer to prepared baking dish.

While cauliflower is cooking, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat and whisk in flour. Cook roux over low heat, whisking, 3 minutes. Add milk in a slow stream, whisking, and bring to a boil, whisking frequently. Reduce heat and simmer sauce whisking occasionally, 8 minutes. Remove from heat and add cheese, scallion greens, salt and pepper, whisking until cheese is melted. Pour cheese sauce evenly over cauliflower. Coarsely crumble crackers into a bowl. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan, then remove from heat and stir in horseradish. Pour over crumbs and toss to coat. Sprinkle crumb topping evenly over cauliflower. Bake gratin in middle of oven until topping is golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Chicken Soup and Broth /adapted from "Italian Holiday Cooking" by Michele Scicolone (William Morrow, New York, 2001)/

Serves 6 to 8 (makes about 3 quarts of broth)

1 chicken (about 3 1/2 pounds)
1 pound (about) chicken backs, wings or thighs *
4 medium carrots, cut into big chunks *
2 celery ribs, cut into big chunks *
2 onions, peeled *
6 sprigs flat-leaf (Italian) parsley *
6 to 10 peppercorns *
salt to taste

1. Remove the liver, gizzards for another use. Rinse chicken and chicken parts well. Place in stock pot at least large enough to hold 6 quarts of liquid. Add 4 quarts (16 cups) cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Lower heat and cook for 30 to 60 minutes, skimming off the foam and any fat that rises to the surface.

2. Add vegetables, parsley, peppercorns and a little salt. Cook for 2 hours. (If you've skimmed off the foam during the first part of the cooking, you'll hardly have to pay attention during this 2-hour period.) Let cool slightly.

3. Strain broth. Remove chicken from bones, discarding skin and bones. If you are serving the broth as soup, return to rinsed pot and add chicken, sliced fresh carrots, celery and onion and simmer until tender. If you only need the broth, reserve the chicken meat for another use.

4. Let soup or broth cool slightly, then cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days. When ready to proceed, scrape fat off surface (I let the fat remain, but anyone with an ounce of sense will get rid of it). Soup can be frozen for up to 3 months.